Wednesday Aug 27th: Into the Heart

They say that you have to see it to believe it, it's true, it is spectacular. Rio Dulce translates to 'Sweet River' and it is truly a tropical wonder. As Penzi slowly chugged up the river we clambered around the deck trying to get various vantage points of the surrounding river jungle. On each side, rising perpendicular springing from the river, are tall walls of living green that rise 300 to 400ft above us. The green walls are dripping with giant vines and philodendron that dip into the water giving shade to the abundant fish. Magnificent bromiliads hang heavy on branches showering the green with spurts of color. The jungle is alive with sound, although we were unable to spot the bird life that lived within it. We shot photo after photo of the surrounding scenery, knowing that it's colossal grandeur could not be caught on camera. The deeper we made our way down the river and the further behind we left the sea, we felt ourselves being sucked into the intrigue and mystery the river held within it.

A few miles in we began to see little Mayan homes, most of them wooden structures with palm thatch roofs, along the rivers edge. The were isolated and far apart from one another, making you wonder if the existence on the river is lonely. There are no roads, only the river, so people that live on the river traverse the river daily, either fishing, or going into town, or visiting a friend or perhaps going to church or school. Many of the Mayan people still fish the traditional way using mahogany dugout canoes and fishing nets. It seems a family affair, and women and children are out paddling the canoes and throwing the nets with perfection and accuracy. Other families have upgraded to standard canoes with little outboards and various other types of boats that will take them up and down the river. It is no wonder that outboards are a hot commodity on the river and we have been warned to always keep our outboard locked up. Apparently there is some type of 'outboard mafia' on the river that are quick to steal and resell the outboards.

The Rio Dulce has an air of the wild west to it, in that the laws of the river are generally policed by the river community and everyone is so isolated from the outside world that the life on the Rio is a world unto itself. We are staying in a little Marina called Texan Bay marina. Not much of a marina really, a few wooden docks that have electricity (as of 4months ago), no water (have to catch rain water) and a little bay where we, and a few other boats, are anchored. There is a little cabana at the top of a hill, furnished with large wooden tables, where cruisers sit all day talking and laughing. A couple from Texas, Mike and Sherry the owners, sit and talk to the visiting cruisers while chopping up huge buds of marijuana with a pair of cheap scissors and roll joints throughout the day. Mike told us he had Texan Rangers on his ass once for running a cock fighting ring out of his home in Texas. There is a kitchen with a very basic menu (only has what you can get in town that week) and serves beer, wine and soda. They now have internet that comes via satellite and although it is intermittent it is quite a treat to be connected with the outside world. The marina owners, offer a boat ride every Wednesday and Saturday into the town of Fronteras, ½ hour up the river, so the boaters can provision. The Marina is isolated far from town on the edge of the river surrounded by jungle. It is so quiet that the jungle sounds at night echo throughout the bay; it is absolutely dark, the entire sky is so littered with a sheen of stars that it is difficult to even pick out a familiar constellation.

We have enjoyed swimming in the fresh water river to cool off and spent an afternoon paddling up through little river tributaries covered by the surrounding jungle. We had heard an amazing bird call and after paddling for hours we found the the culprit, a Montezuma Oropendola, a beautiful pheasant sized bird with an bright orange beak and yellow tail feathers. It was our first jungle bird sighting, and we were thrilled. Check it out: http://avesphoto.com/website/GT/species/OROMTZ-1.htm We are excited to see more of the great Rio Dulce as well as other parts of Guatemala. Tomorrow we are taking a 5 hour bus ride from Fronteras into Guatemala City. We will fill you all in when we get back!!