The Prettiest Little City Ever

It was our last weekend in Guatemala, we were glum. All the wonderful fruit juices, blended fresh, no added sugars and so cheap. All the tamales wrapped like a culinary gift in a corn husk, steaming and delicious. The jungle and the mountains, the arts and the crafts....we would miss Guatemala. As a last Hurrah we treated ourselves to one last Central American bus ride and spent the weekend in the ancient colonial Spanish city of Antigua. It is quite honestly one of the most beautiful cities we have ever visited.



The original capitol for the Spanish colony of Central America, it is over 450 years old. Upon entering the city you feel as if you have stepped back into time, cira 1543. The streets remain cobbled, and horse drawn carriages trot down the narrow roads, the churches and grand Cathedrals rein high overlooking all the towns buildings and one very large and still active volcano watches over the city. Because the capitol city of Antigua was summarily and quickly moved in the 1770's, to the modern day location,of Guatemala City, the original capitol city lay forgotten amidst the mountains, untouched, un-modernized and astoundingly preserved.



(Learn more at: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antigua_Guatemala)





We were drawn by the beauty of the town and walked around in a daze for three days taking it all in. The town, being of Spanish Colonial architecture, has high brick and stone walls facing out towards the street, and cut into these walls is door after door. The doors are massive wooden structures, many the size of barn doors, decorated with large brass hinges, door knobs and ornate designs. At first Keith and I felt locked out on the stone streets with no access to what lay behind the walls. We soon found that as soon as you lift one of the huge brass knockers and bang loudly, a person appears quickly and slides open a little face sized window to see who knocks. Then the large door is opened and you are led into a lush garden courtyard. The center courtyards are surrounded by balconies, all laden in Spanish tiles and then off of the balconies you can enter into the rooms of the house. Each and every door in Antigua was unique and beautiful as were the inner compounds.



Other than taking in the amazing architecture of the town we enjoyed the local craft market. However, one of the most difficult aspects of purchasing at the local markets is the art of haggling. We soon found that the asking price could often be cut in half if you haggled for long enough. After much practice Keith mastered the bargaining arts and took pride in his skill. He knew just when to walk away and then the well practiced vendor would finally cave on the price and both Keith and the vendor walked away happy. Once Keith got the swing of it, there was no stopping him! On our last day he was struck with the proud father syndrome and was haggling for baby booties, stuffed animals, pants, and even Mayan embroidered shirts that won't fit the baby for years! Caroline had to stop him!



One day of our visit was spend touring the churches, monasteries, convents, cathedrals that cover the town. You can't make it more than a few blocks without coming across a Catholic building of some sort. Some of the old buildings are crumbling and in ruins, although one can still imagine its magnificence. Others have been restored over the years and boast their ancient glory. Many of the old churches are used today and on Sunday bells rung throughout the town and the townspeople gathered in the church plazas and around the fountains with their families. There was food and music and children playing all enjoying the 450 year old surroundings.



When time came for us to leave we felt we could of easily spent weeks more in Antigua. We had found the home of Senora Maria who rented out rooms in her home for only $16 per night. We said goodbye to our hosts and wandered to the plaza of La Merced Church and joined in the festivities by eating our last tamale and enjoying the Mayan flute music. We hope to come back one day to this ancient tropical city high in the Mayan hills of Guatemala.